If the brake dust is allowed to sit on your rims for weeks or months at a time it will eat its way into the rim, causing permanent damage.

Fortunately there are things you can do to help alleviate most of the problem.  Replacing the factory brake pads would be a start, with Akebono Pads receiving high marks among many enthusiasts.  There are also shields available that slip in between your rim and brake caliper, although it detracts from the look of the vehicle and leads to higher brake temperatures.

A less costly method is to protect your rims with a wheel protectant, with a couple products on the market specially formulated to protect against brake dust.

One high level protectant is Rejex, which prevents stains and adhesion from road grime and brake dust by providing a thin-film polymer coating.  It works very well in prevention and provides a high shine to the rims.  The downside to this product is its 12 hour cure time and it is not a cleaner, just a protectant.

The easiest to use and favorite among many enthusiasts is Wheel Wax.  Straight from their website reads “High temperature synthetic formula cleans and protects.”  This is a wipe on, let haze, and wipe off product similar to many carnauba waxes, so the cleaning it claims needs to be minimal.  The rims should first be hosed off and cleaned with a high quality wheel cleaner first.  This product is also heat treated for the long haul, meaning it will not break down from the natural heat the wheels expel during normal driving.  Once this product is applied simply washing your wheels once a week will keep brake dust and road grime from adhering to the surface.

Carnauba waxes should be completely avoided.  They often trap brake dust and allow it to etch into the rim.

Most vehicles made in the last 20 years are equipped with headlights made of polycarbonate (plastic).  They are cheaper to make, light weight, and moldable allowing vehicle designers greater flexibility in their designs.  The downside of this is that UV radiation – over a period of time – will break down the polymer bonds of the lens, causing oxidation.

Vehicle manufacturers add a protective coating before the vehicle is sent to market which will prevent oxidation, but that coating too breaks down over time.  The longer a vehicle is exposed to UV radiation, the quicker the breakdown occurs.

The best way to counter any breakdown is to apply a quality protectant every time you apply a wax or sealant to your vehicle.

But what do you do if your headlights are already oxidized or cloudy.  If the damage is minimal a quality product with diminishing abrasives will certainly help.  Such products include Meguiar’s PlastX and 3M Plastic Cleaner.  They work by removing the top layer of the lens to a like new finish, and once a suitable look is achieved adding a protectant is the final step.

If the headlights are beyond using a plastic polish, wet sanding, compounding, and polishing is the last resort before buying new.  This method is effective beyond expectation.  Starting with 1000 grit sandpaper and working down to 2000 grit sandpaper will have the yellow, cloudy layer of oxidation running off of your headlights and down your vehicle.  You will be left with a foggy lens again, but after compounding and polishing a perfect headlight will appear.  Protection at this point and you’re done.

There are certain steps to the wetsanding and polishing process that should be taken.  If you choose to tackle this on your own and have questions, please feel free to call us and we’ll answer any questions you have.  With new headlight assemblies costing into the thousands (BMW) it is well worth the time and effort.

As with all things automotive detailing, the least aggressive method should be attempted first.

The Artillery Fungus is a wood decaying fungus that likes to live on moist landscape mulch.  It is very common across the USA, especially in the East.  It grows to about 1/10th of an inch across and is round in shape.  The Artillery Fungus shoots its spores toward sunlight up to a few feet, and with the wind has been known to reach the second story of houses.  In the absence of sunlight, highly reflective surfaces – like light colored cars and white siding – will do.  It commonly grows on dead trees, limbs, and rotting wood and prefers a cool, moist, and shady area.  Which is why we will often see one side of a vehicle covered in the Artillery Fungus, while the other side is free of it.  (Special thanks to Professor Donald Davis Ph.D. from Penn State Universities Plant Pathology department)

So now that you know a bit about it, how do you get rid of it?

Once the fungus is on your vehicle, it sticks like super glue.  Many, many methods have been attempted at removing it from chemically stripping to power washing the surface.  Most folks see limited results and learn to live with it.

If the fungus has just recently shown up on your vehicle – just recently being within a couple of weeks – wetting the surface and using a plastic razor blade at a 45 degree angle and scraping each one off should work.  (Do not dig the blade into the paint and make sure each time you use the blade the surface of your paint is lubricated)  You may be left with a brown stain where each spore was embedded which will come off with the use of a clay bar or a  moderate abrasive polish.

If they have been on your vehicle for a while, your in for a lot of work.  The same method with the plastic razor blade should be used as step one, however the spores will now be rock hard.  Once the top portion of the spore is gone you’ll still be left with the brown stain.  But as with any form of fungus left to sit for a while, it has likely grown into your single stage paint or clearcoat making the clay bar process useless.  Machine compounding at this stage is likely necessary.  I say machine compounding because a decent layer of clearcoat or paint will need to be removed, where hand compounding just will not work.  If doing this on your own, taking your vehicle to a body shop and having a paint thickness test done before compounding is highly advised.

With the vehicle back to spotless, protecting your vehicle is paramount to avoid the hassle again.  Add a quality wax or sealant to your paint.  Multiple coats twelve hours apart would be ideal.  If the spots return, remove them immediately with a clay bar and – if necessary – plastic razor blade.  A consistent, thorough application of wax should always be on your vehicle.  Removing the infected mulch should be a consideration as well, or park in a closed garage.

As always, we can be reached at any time if any questions arise.

Start from the top.  Headliners attract dirt and should be cleaned every time the interior is tackled.  Do not directly spray the headliner with a cleaning product.  Instead spray said cleaning product onto a terry cloth and wipe into the fabric.  You will be surprised how much dirt comes off the first time you do this.

Wipe away all dirt/dust buildup.  Particularly the dash and center console areas.  At this step you will not want to apply the final dressing, removal of any buildup that can fall to the carpets and seats is the purpose.

Tackle the carpets.  Vacuum everything that isn’t bolted down.  Including under all of the seats, seat tracks, between the front seats and center console, rear deck, storage compartments, etc…  Next pre-treat any stains.  There are tons of automotive carpet cleaners on the market today.  Pick out a couple and test them under your seat.  (Or anywhere you wouldn’t mind a possible change in color)  Liberally apply the cleaner and let it sit for a few minutes.  Once it’s set, remove with a terry towel by gently dabbing away at it.  You do not want to rub it further into the fibers.  After those steps are complete is when we break out our hot water extractor and remove dirt or stains that remain.  Assuming most folks do not have a hot water extractor, taking the vacuum over the carpets one more time will suffice.

Seatbelts.  The same cleaner that was used for your carpets can be used here as well.  Pre-treat and then clean off.  Seatbelts are notoriously stubborn with their dirt and will likely require multiple efforts.

Seats.  For cloth seats many of the same products and procedures from cleaning carpets can be used here.  If your seats are leather the process will become more involved.  A good leather cleaner and conditioner will be needed, my suggestion is Leatherique.  Frequent maintenance is required to prevent dye-transfer and cracking!

Dash and console.  As with carpet cleaners, there are many vinyl dressings on the market.  Choosing one that has UV protection and a cleaning agent is a must.  Apply the dressing on all of your vinyl (Dash, center console, doors, etc..) and then wipe off with a microfiber towel.  Multiple applications will increase the shine if wanted.  This is also the stage where you’ll want to break out the Q-tips and toothpicks to properly clean the tight areas.  Most time-consuming step of them all!

Windows.  Many products are out there, but Stoners Invisible Glass is what you’ll want.  (Widely available at all box stores)  I wrote a review on this product a while back that can be seen here.

And here are some before and after pictures of a proper interior detail.

They’re so common they’re overlooked!  And not just on automobiles either, I spent an hour today removing an amazing amount of stickers from my mountain bike.  So from stickers on glass to stickers on clear coat/paint, here are a few tips on how to remove them without needing an Aspirin.

What you’ll want:

1. Plastic razor blade
2. Hair dryer
3. Sticker remover (Goo Gone is a quality product)
4. Spare towels
5. Window cleaner (ammonia-free) for glass / Polish for clear coat and paint.
6. Applicator pad.

The Process:  (This method should not be used on any tinted glass).

1. Heat sticker using the hair dryer from about a foot away until warm to the touch.  Do not overheat stickers on Clear Coat/Paint, damage to the finish can occur.
2. Use plastic razor blade to lift a corner until possible to grab with fingers.
3. Peal off sticker.  It may be necessary to use the hair dryer as you’re pulling on the sticker to prevent leftover residue.
4. If any residue is left; apply a small amount of sticker remover to spare towel and wipe off.
5. Clean glass with ammonia-free window cleaner.  For clear coat or paint, apply a small amount of polish to an applicator pad and gently massage into finish, wipe off with towel.

Once completed you should have your vehicle free of any advertising or unwanted stickers.

As always, if a question arises during the process feel free to call us.

The whole purpose behind the designation is to remind everyone to make sure their vehicle is up to date mechanically, before the mileage starts to pile up as we hit nicer, warmer weather.

Here are a few things to check over:

Windshield wipers - Better to inspect and replace before you’re caught in a torrential downpour.  $25.00 will get you a good replacement pair, and the folks at the auto part stores even offer to change them out for you.

Replace your fluids - Many drivers don’t think about fluids beyond their motor oil.  But there’s also coolant in the radiator that needs to be checked out, as well as your transmission and brake fluid.  They are all critical for keeping parts lubricated and preventing your engine from overheating.

Check your tire pressure - Overinflated tires have less traction in the rain; underinflated tires can bulge out, putting pressure on the sidewalls and making the tires more vulnerable to blowouts.

Belts and hoses - Most vehicles today have a serpentine belt that runs all accessories.  If that belt breaks you can lose your power steering, water pump, and charging system immediately.

Battery and Spark Plugs - Make sure battery posts are secure and free of corrosion.

And of course, Clean and Protect your Paint.

Generally there are two types of tire dressings,  solvent based silicone dressings and water based dressings.

Solvent based silicone dressings are usually a clear and greasy liquid.  Most contain Dimethalsiloxane (DMS) that contain petroleum solvents as a cleaning agent.  Most will leave a very durable and long lasting shine to your tires.  However, they remove the elasticity from the rubber resulting in a dry inflexible surface and premature rubber wear.  They are also non-biodegradable and not environmentally friendly.

Water based dressings are usually a milky-white liquid that do not contain petroleum distillate solvents.  They use a combination of natural oils and polymers that will coat and bond to the tire, leaving a non-greasy satin finish.  They are biodegradable and environmentally friendly.

Most tire manufacturers have issued service bulletins advising against the use of solvent based dressings containing DMS, claiming the solvent will dissolve the protective waxes and compromise the sidewall of their tires.  Ford, General Motors, and Chrysler have also issued advisory bulletins against using these products as it may stain the vehicles paint and wheel surfaces.

I also placed a call into Goodyear this morning to get their official stance on the matter.  The representative said they officially recommend using soap and water, nothing else.  The representative staunchly held that view, until I brought up the fact that every auto parts store in America carries multiple varieties of both, and we wanted to ensure our clients the  proper product was being used on their Goodyear tires.  After holding for several minutes, the representative advised from ever using a solvent based product on their tires, but that water based products are indeed safe to use.

For regular maintenance your vehicles trim should be washed when your vehicle is washed, especially during the Winter months when road salt and brine are used in abundance.  The trim around the windows is simple enough, but the weather stripping (which runs around your door moldings, most visible when the door is opened) requires a little extra work.  The best way to clean these is by using a small bucket with soap and a microfiber towel, and go door to door wiping down and then drying all weather stripping.

Once that is complete you will want to protect the rubber with a quality, UV protecting product.  Our go-to product for this is Black Wow.  Simply add some of the product to a microfiber applicator pad and wipe into the moldings and weather stripping.  A quality product will last a couple of months and does not need repeating every wash.

The result will be long lasting trim and weather stripping that retains its color.

The best way to avoid this is to dry your vehicle immediately after washing.  And the best way to do that is to use a microfiber towel.  The towel of choice for us is the Cobra Gold Plush Microfiber Towel, available through wholesalers.  While some towels sold in box stores are advertised as “microfiber”, the majority are not of high quality and can induce swirls in your paint or clear coat.

The Cobras on average cost $14.99 for a 25 x 36 towel, which is more than sufficient to dry an average sized vehicle.  They do require special washing to maintain their absorbency, but if done correctly should last a long time.  The towels are made from a 70/30 blend of polyester and polyamide, with a  hefty weight of 380 g/m2, which is a fancy way of saying they are dense.  The same density of high quality canvas used for fine art.

A couple nice features of this towel are the microfiber edges, with a microfiber strip sewn around the edges to cover the stitching, reducing the risk of swirls and micro scratches.  The tag is also removable, again reducing the risks.

Overall a high quality microfiber towel at a good price.

It restores the color to faded and dull exterior trim, working on all unpainted plastic trim, regardless of color.  It is different from ordinary trim restorers because it actually restores and protects the trim, lasting for weeks to months at a time.  It also will not wash off in the rain or while washing in your driveway.

Black Wow does not contain any dyes or colorants.  It is meant for smooth to lightly textured trim and requires very little product for proper application.  Which is a good thing because one 4 ounce bottle costs $24.99 through wholesalers, unfortunately not available through local auto part stores.  One bottle will usually last us a month.

Black Wow is not intended for tires or steps.  This product should be applied before washing the vehicle and buffed off with a microfiber towel.  Then washed.  The results warrant the naming of the product.